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Compared to the designer-lined slopes and luxury boutique-lined streets of more widely known Alpine destinations like Gstaad and St. Moritz, Austria's mountain towns are refreshingly understated. “We have a very luxurious place here,” says Alice Lichtenstein, an Italian-born design curator who moved to the hills of eastern Austria 20 years ago and took up residence in her husband's ancestral castle. Instead, Austrian resorts are centered around authentic skiing and deep cultural traditions. For Austrians, these are effectively the same thing. “Skiing is our version of soccer or baseball,” says New York-based sommelier, restaurateur, and winemaker Aldo Sohm. He grew up on the outskirts of Innsbruck. “That's who we are.”
Stretching from the border with Liechtenstein (country) in the east to the Vienna Basin in the west, Austria's Alpine region covers more than 20,000 square miles. Depending on which mountain you're aiming for, visitors often fly into Zurich or Munich, where they either rent a car or take the train into the mountain (it takes about two hours to get from Munich to Salzburg by train). Sohm prefers connecting to Innsbruck Airport via Frankfurt. It's “small, but very efficient,” he says. According to Liechtenstein, a car is not really needed for a ski holiday here. “I walk out of the hotel and I’m at the elevator,” she says.
From November to March, winter sports are the main attraction. Vacationers flock to soak in the region's natural hot springs, which are dotted with historic spa towns like Bad Aussee. “The perfect Austrian weekend consists of checking into a hotel with a hot spring, soaking in the hot spring, eating, and going for a walk,” says Lichtenstein. There are also several notable locations where you can view art and design and explore local crafts such as glass making and woodwork. And once the snow melts, the area becomes “basically a paradise” for hikers and bikers, Sohm said.
With so many opportunities to whet your appetite, it's no wonder the food here tends to be hearty. (“Now at least you can find fish,” Lichtenstein says. “That didn’t happen 20 years ago.”) There are some ambitious restaurants, especially the local custom of fancy hotel breakfasts. However, it is the same for Soum and the people. For stylist Robert Ravensteiner, who grew up in an Austrian family in Italy's South Tyrol region, knödel (bread dumplings) are by far his favorite dish, and he considers them “home food.'' I will appeal. “I like restaurants that are timeless, and it's like stepping into another era,” says Ravensteiner.
Perhaps the most popular place to fill up, at least during the snowy season, is the “hut” at the top of the slope. There, the après-ski crowd munches on dumplings and Kaiserschmarn (chopped pancakes caramelized with rum-soaked raisins). and sugar) with large amounts of alcohol. “It's very Austrian to drink too much on the mountain and then ski down the mountain,” says Lichtenstein. “I come from Italy, and after a ski day, I go home, take a shower, put on makeup and put on high heels, even if it's snowing, and everyone is dancing and flirting in their ski boots. I thought it was insane to be there. But now I know. I can just take the last lift, dance, have a drink, and slide back down.”
insider
alice lichtenstein Italian-born, Austria-based design curator and founder of Schloss Holleneg for Design, a residency program and exhibition space for emerging designers.
robert rabensteiner A fashion consultant from Italy's South Tyrol region bordering Austria, she currently divides her time between Milan and the Dolomites.
Aldo Soum He is a sommelier, winemaker, author, and owner of Aldo Soum Wine Bar in Manhattan. Based in Brooklyn, he was born and raised near Innsbruck, Austria.
Bettina Steindl Curator and CEO of CampusVäre, Center for contemporary art and design in Vorarlberg, Austria. She grew up in her family's hotel, Der Unterwirt (now run by two sisters) in the Alpine village of Ebbs.
sleep
“ WiesergutThis family-run place in Saalbach-Hinterglemm is calm yet very luxurious and offers the most delicious food. At breakfast, wagons come with different types of cereals, porridge and muesli. There's a cheese tray with different jams each day, eggs, ham, bacon, salami, you name it. Almost everything is grown locally, some on our own farm. (From about $400 per night)
“We love staying at this hotel in Lech” rote wand Hotel. The room has a quirky decor and lots of visual details that are very pleasing. There are also very good restaurants. (From about $450 per night)
“G'sund & Natur Hotel di Vasnerin Relax, do yoga and take in the stunning views at this adults-only hotel in Bad Aussee. It's not really a ski town, but there's plenty of cross-country skiing nearby. ” (From about $185 per night) — Alice Lichtenstein
“Burg Vital Located right next to the ski slopes in Oberlech, you can ski right to your bed. It has a great restaurant and an award-winning wine list, with a good selection but not too expensive. ” (From about $790 per night) — Aldo Soum
“Having lived and grown up in the Alps, we worship nature and feel it is very important to live in harmony with it. When you are in a place that is too noisy and crazy, you lose your connection with nature. Masu. Hotel AlpensternThis beautiful and tranquil hotel on the Damrus-Melau ski area was designed by a local architect and built primarily from local ash. This restaurant is a favorite place to eat in the area, with a large sunny terrace and serving traditional Austrian cuisine with a modern touch. (From about $440 per night)
“Biohotel SchwanenThe hotel, located near the Bregenzerwald ski area, is run by a local family whose son spent 10 years in the US working for Daniel Boulud in New York and Benue in San Francisco. He has made this hotel a truly wonderful place. The restaurant is all organic and has an amazing wine cellar. ” (From about $160 per night) — Bettina Steindl
” Christiania Lech The hotel is a mix of old and new, with bright colors, coolly furnished and designed rooms, and classic Austrian service. (From about $625 per night)
“munihau castleThe 15th-century castle in Kitzbühel is filled with antique furniture and historic décor. Stay overnight and live like Austrian royalty. ” (From about $130 per night) — Robert Ravensteiner
eat and drink
“DahoamThere is a tasting menu at the Saalbach Ski Resort, which I don't usually go to, but the food was so delicious that I unexpectedly ate all the courses. Everything you eat can be traced back to local producers and you have a great view of the mountains.
“darewolfin the Lech language, is called. Ski Hutte: Casual lunch restaurant at the top of the mountain [the menu includes burgers, steaks and Thai curry] And apres ski. This place is very different from most. The interior is all finished in pale wood and filled with light. ” — Al
“Lotus No. 8 It is located in Oberlech (region at the top of the mountain in Lech), in the middle of the slopes. From the moment you enter, you can smell the pleasant aroma. After the meal [of fondue or blood sausage, for example]you can slide all the way.
“hallewirtKitzbühel's traditional cuisine with a twist. A knödel may come with a special sausage, or a spaetzle with a less common sauce. It's next to a small church, so it's very good to visit later. ” — R.R.
“Das SchindlerIt's a small place in Innsbruck with a bit of a scene. The food is more international than most places. In addition to the usual schnitzel and steak, Chinese dumplings and ravioli are also on the menu, but like almost everything in Innsbruck, it's casual.
“in Vices WrestleThe schnitzel in the center of Innsbruck is particularly good, served in the traditional way with potato salad and lemon and lingonberry jam.
“zum wilden manA short distance from Innsbruck is an old Tyrolean restaurant. stube [a wood-clad room with a tiled stove] Dark cedar lined walls. Austrian food can often be a little heavy, but that's not the case here.
“At 10,000 feet above sea level in Sölden, attached to the James Bond Museum 007 Elements, Ice Q It's located on top of a mountain and is very stylish and modern. The scenery is completely different and you are literally above the clouds. ” – as
“Bad Aussee is a spa town where people come to relax, soak in mineral springs and hike around beautiful lakes, but it is also known for its traditional shops. Osea Handrucke and Suzanne Spat — We sell dirndls and lederhosen. Silk and floral cotton can also be purchased by the metre. In Austria it is used only for dirndls, but abroad it can be used to make pillows and other household items. ” — Al
“Riedel was founded in the 18th century, but its current CEO, Max Riedel, is in his 40s and is the man who invented the famous O series of stemless wine glasses. You can visit them factory and museum At Kufstein, you can see hand-blown glass and buy unique pieces made there. ” — B.S.
takeaway
“Bregenzerwald workshop is a huge handicraft atelier where you can view exhibits, meet artisans, and purchase their works. I especially like wooden homewares, such as beautiful fluted breadboards made from local maple. ” — B.S.
“RocertoFritzen is the top manufacturer of eau de vie. [brandy]. Reservations are required to visit the distillery. The apricot variety is most famous, but I love quince as it is more typical of Tyrolean cuisine. ” – as
explore
“Saalbach Hinterglemm It's my favorite ski area, with slopes for all levels and lots of après-ski fun. The atmosphere is young and sporty. In Italy, I was used to taking a lift, skiing down, taking another lift up, then skiing back down again. Here you can hop on a lift and ski for miles before calling for a break. There are also many off-piste skis.” — Al
The town of Bad Gastein Great place. Walk through the village to the waterfall. The waterfall cascades right past the houses. The city is also architecturally interesting. Gerhard Gastenauer designed the Congress Center, a striking example of 1970s Brutalism, topped by four geodesic domes. Unfortunately, you won't be able to go inside until things are restored.
” Damrus Melau Vorarlberg's ski resorts usually have excellent snow conditions. There are some areas that are easier for beginners, but generally the people who ski there are good skiers. ” — B.S.
“swarovski crystal worldLocated in Wattens, about 16 miles east of Innsbruck, it is currently one of Austria's most popular tourist attractions. The exhibits are very sparkling, flashy and fun. ” – as
“Kitzbühelthis ski resort in Wilder Kaiser has been a ski destination for upper-class Germans and Austrians since the 1980s and '90s. The most prestigious professional ski race, the Hahnenkamm, is held there every year. ” — R.R.
“In the warmer months, my wife, who is not an experienced hiker, and I go to the village of Axama Rhythm and ride the Hodleburn cable car. Hodor Plateau Hike around it with beautiful views of the valley. If I'm alone, sunrise hike Go celllesswhich is more advanced. To see the sunrise in summer, you have to leave Innsbruck at 3am. It's very steep and difficult, but it's worth it. Afterwards you can take off your boots and cool off. kneippa river playground set up by the town.
“James Bond Museum, 007 Elementsuper attractive. Located atop Sölden's Gaislachkogl mountain, this is where “Spectre” was filmed 10 years ago, and the exhibits are full of behind-the-scenes secrets. ” – as
These interviews have been edited and condensed.