For centuries, tourists have flocked to Western North Carolina for its mountain views, hiking trails and hundreds of waterfalls. Luxury inns cater to their needs with all-inclusive gourmet dining, hiking guides, spas, golf courses and upscale yet relaxed accommodations.
Here are three of my favorites: discovering the joys of winter hiking, soothing myself with a sound healing/yoga class, watching an unofficial parade of classic cars, perfecting my badminton skills, lounging in front of a wood fire, and watching the sun rise over four mountain ranges.
Swag
2300 Swag Road
Waynesville, NC 28785
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“Prepare for joy,” Barb, my yoga and sound healing teacher, said during class. It was a lovely thing to say, but I was in joy from the moment I entered The Swag’s welcome cabin.
Located on 250 acres at an elevation of 5,000 feet, The Swag at Relais & Châteaux is comprised of several buildings constructed from rough-hewn logs. The cabins and lodges offer 17 unique rooms, some with outdoor showers or bathtubs, indoor saunas, and fireplaces.
We stayed in the Will's Room at Chestnut Lodge, which had an outdoor shower and a wood-burning fireplace, a table on the front porch where we had lunch one day, and rocking chairs that were perfect for taking in the mountain views.
The property shares a one-mile border with Smoky Mountain National Park, so walking the trails with walking sticks was easy.Adding to the property's charm is the retreat, where you can lie in a hammock by the stream or relax on the mountain lookout.
Other activities include cocktail classes, wine tasting, croquet, cornhole, fly fishing, spa treatments, horseback riding, and classes through the Expert in Residence program. Naturalists, artists, photographers, and storytellers visit for short periods and give classes and lectures. During our visit, professional hiking guide Matt Dobson shared anecdotes from the trails and led us on nature walks, teaching us about the history of the area and pointing out the 300-year-old cherry tree.
Besides the stunning natural beauty and fantastic service, the highlight of The Swag and what really puts it at the top of our favorite places to stay is the food. Because the resort is all-inclusive, there's little opportunity to work up an appetite, but we didn't let that stop us.
Breakfast options include breakfast sandwiches, French toast, build-your-own omelets, and chef specialties. Lunch items like sandwiches and Thai chicken salad are chosen the day before and packed in a backpack, bag, or picnic basket. The highlight was the chef's picnic at Gooseberry Knob, where we feasted on burgers, salmon, and fried chicken on a large grassy area.
Dinner is a four-course meal that includes soup, salad, filet, a main dish such as char and mushroom risotto, and dessert.
Historic Tapoco Lodge
14981 Tapoco Road
Robbinsville, NC 28771
Tapoco
Some of my favorite activities top the list: hiking in the forest, dining al fresco with a water view, and relaxing in a hot tub. I experienced all of this at Historic Tapoco Lodge, located in the Nantahala National Forest.
Tapoco, once a boarding house for Tallassee Electric Company employees, opened in 1930 and features six lodge rooms, three lodge suites and 18 cabin rooms on 120 acres along the Cheoa River. It also has a small spa, free yoga classes and tennis courts.
One afternoon we hiked one of several trails with views of the Cheoa River, remnants of an old moonshine distillery, and enough steep elevation gain to get our heart rates up.
An unexpected treat was an informal car show. Tapoco is just minutes from Tail of the Dragon, an 11-mile stretch of U.S. 129 with 318 curves that attracts car enthusiasts who stop for drinks and food and park their immaculately restored classic cars in the parking lot.
“The food alone is worth coming back for,” said my husband, Chris, as we munched on black-and-blue burgers at Tapoco Tavern, sitting on a spacious deck area overlooking the rushing water. Dinner that night was equally delicious, including ribeye, grilled Carolina trout, and fried okra.
High Hampton Resort
1525 Highway 107 S.
Cashiers, NC 28717
High Hampton
After the team from Blackberry Farm purchased the 101-year-old High Hampton and reopened it in 2021, the “Dirty Dancing” atmosphere is gone, along with the buffet meals and rustic dining room furniture. Meals are now sit-down, and the previous all-inclusive features are now optional. In addition to the Dining Room and The Tavern, the inn has three other dining venues: Halsted House, Range House and Mitches Lakeside.
The High Hampton maintains an atmosphere of laid-back luxury, with rocking chairs on the front porch and a huge lobby with a four-sided fireplace and several game tables. We tried out some board games, and my husband beat me to a “mystery date.”
The 1,400-acre property features a Tom Fazio-designed golf course, a lake, pools, a children's activity center, croquet grounds, a spa, fitness room, hiking trails and six pickleball courts. In the warmer months, the 35-acre lake offers swimming, canoeing, paddle boarding and kayaking.
The property offers 18 in-rooms, 40 cottage rooms, and three cottages. The in-room rooms have balconies overlooking the lake, mini-fridges, and large bathrooms with tubs and dual sinks. Dark paneled hallways are lined with historic photos and pages from hotel registries going back decades.
