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Lège-Cap Ferret, on France's west coast, a 15-mile sandbar that stretches like a defensive arm across Arcachon Bay, is something of a French version of Montauk, New York, but it dates back a decade or two. Not to be confused with Cap Ferrat, a glittering peninsula of almost the same name in southeastern France, Cap Ferrat, a 30-minute ferry ride from the seaside town of Arcachon, features a varied and contrasting landscape: oyster farms in a tranquil lagoon, or Bassoon With its castle of São Jorge on the coast and its surf beach on the Atlantic side (“When the waves come up, they're huge,” says designer and architect Philippe Starck), it has been attracting Parisians since the 1950s.
The past 15 years have seen a rise in more bourgeois-bohemian tourists—locals blame the 2010 film “Little White Lies” (written and directed by Guillaume Canet and starring Marion Cotillard) and the high-speed rail that cut travel time from Paris to Bordeaux (about 45 miles from Cap Ferret) to just over two hours in 2017—but for the most part, the peninsula has managed to remain low-key.
The hotels are charming rather than luxurious, the bicycles, vintage Citroens and Mini Mokes outnumber the Range Rovers and sports cars, and the oyster shacks serve as local eateries serving shellfish (an estimated 60 percent of the oysters consumed in France come from Arcachon Bay) and white wine but not much else.
Across the lagoon lies the chic village of Pyla-sur-Mer, home to the Philippe Starck-designed hotels La Corniche and Hôtel Ha(ai)za, as well as the mighty Dune of Pilat, Europe's tallest sand dune, which rises more than 300 feet and is a tall climb away. Elegant Arcachon is also worth a visit for its market and charming Ville d'Iver, a neighborhood of ornate villas built in the 19th century for wealthy residents to recuperate during Europe's tuberculosis epidemic. Whatever you do, make time to explore La Plage de l'Isolan, a sand-dune-covered beach on Cap Ferret's Atlantic side. “It's one of the few places in France where you can be alone on the beach in midsummer,” says artist and fashion designer Marguerite Bartelote. Here, Bartelote, Starck and two other locals share some of their favorite spots.
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Artist and fashion designer Marguerite Barthelotte He grew up in Cap-Ferret and is co-founder and creative director of the label G. Kero, which has boutiques in Cap-Ferret and Paris.
Farid Ben Ahmed She is the manager of Etincelle, a Moroccan home goods store in Cap Ferret, and divides her time between Bordeaux and Marrakech.
designer Sarah Poniatowski Founder of Maison Sarah Lavoine, a homewares and clothing brand. She lives primarily in Paris but also has a home in Cap Ferret and has been holidaying in the area since she was a child.
Designer and Architect Philippe Starck He is based in Portugal and has a house in Cap Ferret. He designed the La Corniche and Ha(a)itza hotels in Pyla-sur-Mer, on the other side of the peninsula, as well as La Pâtisserie de Mas Filles, which opened last year in Arcachon, and is currently building a small hotel on Cap Ferret.
Illustration by Richard Pederin
“Hotel Des Pins A charming 1930s atmosphere in a quiet location Bassoon The hotel next door was originally built as a theatre and was converted into a hotel in 1999 by a former Bordeaux footballer. It has 13 rooms, a restaurant and a terrace. (From about $100 a night) Marguerite Barthelotte
“Hotel des Dunes It was the first hotel to open in Cap Ferret. It opened in 1969 and reopened last year after undergoing a complete renovation. It is located in the sand dunes. [short] It's just a short walk from the ocean, giving it a surf vibe; its 13 rooms are simple and retro, with tiled headboards, Bakelite telephones and striped deck chairs on the terraces. (From about $185 per night) Sarah Poniatowski
“I La Maison du Bassin For nearly 30 years, I have fond memories of the birthday surprise my wife prepared for me there. It was during a storm, so we had no heat or electricity, only candles. (From about $170 per night). I would also recommend renting a cottage through Sandra and Jerome Cazabon. Preskill Real Estate Company Walking to the market, dining at an oyster cabana by the water, or renting a bike to the ocean side of the beach is a great way to experience authentic local life.” (July rental rates start at about $1,720 per week.) — Philippe Starck
” La Maize This restaurant is run by a young chef named Juliette Lacroix-Wassover. Bassoon The dish, topped with ginger sauce, was inspired by a trip to Indonesia. [and elsewhere]Traditional oyster tasting [tasting] Cap Ferret is a town that tends to be pretty similar, so it's nice to have something different. It has a nice atmosphere and is very nice even in the off-season. I took my kids there. Sailfish Cafe I often go there for a late lunch when I don't feel like cooking. They have great burgers and healthy food and are open all day.” space
“It's fun to go Huitl Mareyrana new oyster shack right on the bay. I eat my oysters with lemon juice and bring a lemon with me. I use a lot of lemon because I crave lemon so much. I always order a Don Juan cocktail. louver“La Maize Restaurant Cocktail Bar” Megabytes
“Chez Hortense, [a seafood restaurant] Overlooking the bay, this restaurant is a must-visit and a Cap Ferret speciality that has been passed down for generations: book a table early and order the speciality garlic mussels, and don't miss the cream-filled Dunes Blanche choux. Chef Pascal Pain et Dune Blanche — They are a joy. Farid Ben Ahmed
“Eat oysters La Cabane HortenseSister store This is a classic dish at Chez Hortense. Imperatriz Parkis run by my friend Joel Dupsch, who embodies the sensitive humor of an oysterman, and I love the warm hospitality and generous menu. The Bouchon du Ferre I order tuna pâté for lunch or dinner any time of the year. When I entertain guests at my home in Cap Ferret, I like to make an oyster omelette. I just add a few oysters at the end and let it warm up a little before serving. At first my friends were surprised, but now they are delighted. “— P.S.
shop
“I buy summer Fruits — raspberries, Cherry, melon, Strawberry — from Chez Cocotte The market is run by a very funny and generous woman who gives bonbons to children.” Megabytes
“In the summer, I often cook seafood lunches for my children and their friends using langoustines and fish that I find at the wonderful market in Cap Ferret. [in summer] Go around 8am before it gets crowded. Day.Co They stock a great range of homeware brands, a number of my own products, and also have block-printed tablecloths, napkins, candles and a lovely collection of crockery that the owner has made in India.” space
“Canelés are small cakes flavoured with rum and vanilla that originated in Bordeaux. Frederian It is the most famous patisserie in Cap Ferret and the best place to buy patisserie.” — space
“Sailing equipment is [the Grand Piquey location of the store] Comptoir de la Mer— I recommend Captain's Cap in Marine Blue, which is waterproof and has been refined over the years to work perfectly at sea. Original perfumes like Me Gustas by my lifelong friend Jacques Zolti. Jane de Boy“My wife and daughter love the laid back rock n' roll fashion and the advice the owner, Marie, gives.” P.S.
“rental PinasBoard a traditional wooden boat Bank d'ArguinA huge sandbar in the middle of the bay in front of the Dune of Pyla, one of the most beautiful places in the world, at low tide you feel like you are in the Maldives, with amazing birdlife and the chance to be alone even on the 14th of July. [Bastille Day]We spent the whole afternoon there, picnicking and playing pétanque until the sun went down.” space
“There are lots of secret beach spots on the Atlantic side. Bordeaux Street Cap Ferret Walk through the forest to miles of white sand beaches.” Megabytes
“Get on the boat Cabanes ChankesIt is located next to the Île aux Oiseaux (Bird Island). The first of these stilt houses was built in 1883. [then rebuilt in the 1940s]The tides were used by oyster farmers to survey their farms at high and low tide. It's a spectacular sight.” FBA
“When I have a little free time, I do what everyone else is doing. Bassoon: Going on a boat with good friends, having some white wine and oysters, and chatting until dark. What I enjoy most is the locals' talent for conversation. The oyster fishermen's sense of humor is sharp, creative and contagious. I also like to go for bike rides through villages and forests. I wish I could surf. My daughter Justice is a great surfer and this is one of her favorite spots. Alex Surfing School It's a place to learn.” P.S.
Practical issues
“Book your taxi boat from Arcachon to Cap Ferret in advance. [around] This is the best way to reach the peninsula in 30 minutes. It may take a while as there is only one small road.” — space
These interviews have been edited and condensed.