Less than an hour from Cork Airport, but hidden from the main tourist trails, Ireland's Blackwater Valley is immersed in the splendor of nature and old world romance. The area takes its name from Munster Blackwater, a deep, fast river that shakes the lush landscape before joining the Atlantic in the medieval town of Youghal.
Sided between the mountains of Knockmere Doun to the north, the valley, blown away by the fresh winds coming out of the sea, has its own microclimate, rich, lush, lush and lush vegetation.
Like its natural beauty, the area is known for its landmarks ranging from castles to fools and its thriving cultural scene. If you are planning a trip to Ireland, it is worth a conversion.
One of the most popular places to stay nearby is Ballymaloe House, home to Ballymaloe Cookery School. Many of Ireland's top chefs are trained here, and ballerina farm fame Hannah Neilman recently spent three months cooking courses there. The rooms are traditional and comfortable, and cost from 280 euros per night (approximately $318) depending on the season. Or head to the 220 acre Castlemartyr resort (rooms starting at 233 euros per night). This is a 5-star hotel located in a large manor house, just next to an abandoned castle. It is a great base to explore the area and its own destination, with seven meal options including a traditional Irish pub and hunting pigs.
Castlemartyr is an example of what is called a “big house” in Ireland. This is a large country house built by wealthy Anglo-Irish landowners from the 17th and 19th centuries. In many parts of the country they are either burned out or left rotten and molded, but here, because of a cohort of wealthy newcomers, they are mostly still inhabited and thriving.
Lismore Castle is located in the heart of Blackwater Valley, both geographically and culturally. This impressive Gothic building appears to have escaped from the movie set, looming above the banks of the river and presenting a dramatic and beautiful silhouette. It is the Irish seat of the Duke of Devonshire. They also own Chatsworth, one of England's largest estates. Its former residents include Adele Astaire, Fred Astaire's sister, and one of the most famous vaudeville stars of her time. She was a common name in the 1920s and 30s, but retired from the stage to marry Charles Cavendish, the second son of the Duke of Devonshire. As Chateline, she modernized her home and went on long walks to keep her pet goats.
If you're driving to Lismore, stop by Barry Sagartmore Towers, an extraordinary pair of crumbling Gothic Gate Lodges that look like miniature fairytale castles. These stupidity can be freely visited, surrounded by forests and not seen other buildings. Be prepared for a walk – the trail is 1.5 miles and has rough paths.
One of the region's major cultural events is the Blackwater Valley Opera Festival, held every summer, captivates music lovers from all over the world and hears the highest quality productions in a collection of notable venues. These include some of the best country houses in the area, as well as the ancient Cathedral of St. Carthage in the town of Lismore.
The festival consists of around 20 events over the week, with a total of around 5,000 visitors. “The big draw is having Lismore Castle as our main venue,” said resident Susie Wingfield. “This is an incredible outdoor environment, especially for the opera in the evening. And all the recitals are in private houses and churches that feel very special and intimate.”
In the spring, the West Waterford Drama Festival takes place in the small village of Ballyduff, as Irish top amateur theatre groups gather in local halls to wear productions like those seen in Dublin and Cork.
A trip to Blackwater Valley will never be complete without a visit to Ardmore, a small fishing village on the sturdy coast. Despite its population of less than 500, it owns one of the Michelin-starred restaurants in Ireland outside Dublin. Within the Cliffhouse hotel, rooms with breakfast starting at 269 euros per night, the restaurant is open Wednesday through Saturday, nodding to Ardmore's maritime heritage and focusing on local ingredients with a special emphasis on seafood. Before sinking into one of the hotel's extremely comfortable beds, you will remain above the seven-course tasting menu (150 euros) and fall asleep at the sound of crashing onto the cliffs.
The next day, spend the morning exploring the village and strolling through the ruins of the round 12th century towers and cathedral. Stop by Ardmore Pottery & Gallery, a family-run business where Irish manufacturers sell modern ceramics and artworks. You can also access the on-site studio. Here you can see that Aredenware Pots are hand-made. If the weather is good, there are plenty of sandy beaches. CurlaghBeach and Whiting Bay are two main ones.
Literary Type can take part in a creative writing workshop at Molly Keene's Writer Retreat (350 euros for a 3-day course). Here, the original home of the Anglo-Irish author is regularly open to budding creatives. Keene is a well-known writer and a playwright with a long career, and after discovering nearly 60 years of success in the 1920s, her novel “Good Behavior” was nominated for the 1981 Booker Prize. She is one of several authors related to Blackwater Valley. Travel author Dervla Murphy grew up in Lismore. Poet Thomas McCarthy lives nearby in Cappokin.
Molly Keene's daughter, Virginia Brownlow, still calls Blackwater Valley her hometown despite living in both Dublin and London. When asked what would keep her on this country corner of Ireland, her response was simple: “The beauty of it. It's a very lyrical and lovely place.”
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