You probably know you need to wear sunscreen. And you also know the consequences of not doing so. Overexposure to UV rays can accelerate signs of aging, worsen skin conditions, and even cause skin cancer. It can also cause painful burns. But when should you apply sunscreen, and how much? Does every type of sunscreen work? And what should you do if you end up burning despite your best efforts? Here, skincare and cosmetics experts share their advice for protecting yourself from head to toe.
Which sunscreen is best for me?
Sunscreens come in two types: chemical and mineral. Generally, chemical sunscreens protect the skin by absorbing UV rays, while mineral or physical sunscreens reflect them away from the skin. However, there's not much difference in how they work. Mineral sunscreens, which contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, can also absorb large amounts of UV rays, says Dr Michelle Wong, a cosmetic scientist based in Sydney, Australia.
“Neither [chemical nor mineral sunscreens] “Mineral sunscreens are naturally good for your skin,” says New York dermatologist Elise Love, MD, but their chemical formulas can irritate sensitive skin. Meanwhile, many mineral sunscreens can leave a white cast, especially on darker skin, due to the natural color of the ingredients. “The best sunscreen is one you actually wear,” says Lily Njoroge, esthetician and owner of SkinWinds Medical Spa in Brooklyn. For the face, Dr. Love recommends EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46 and Skin Better Science Sun Better Sheer SPF 70, or tinted versions of either, which are less noticeable on the skin. For the body, she likes Supergoop's Play Everyday Lotion SPF 50 and Unseen Sunscreen Body SPF 40, which have chemical formulas that are water- and sweat-resistant. Neutrogena's Hydro Boost Water Gel Lotion SPF 50 is a good drugstore option.
Whatever product you choose, it should be broad-spectrum, offering protection from both UVA and UVB rays, the latter of which can cause sunburn, and should have an SPF (sun protection factor, a measure of how effective a sunscreen is against UV rays) of at least 30. However, if your skin is especially sensitive due to conditions like rosacea or lupus, topical treatments like chemical peels or retinoids, or laser or waxing, Love suggests that an SPF of 50 or higher is best.
When should I use sunscreen?
Regardless of your skin color, you should wear sunscreen on exposed parts of your body all year round, even on cloudy or cold days. Most experts recommend applying at least a shot-glass' worth, or one ounce, to your body, especially when you're wearing a bathing suit or minimally covered. As the final step in your skincare routine, apply a nickel-sized amount to your face. But Love thinks the three-finger rule is easier to remember: Cover your face and neck with three finger lengths of sunscreen.
don't forget Areas we tend to neglect in the sun include the ears, scalp, hands, bikini line, legs, and especially the lips, which Njoroge says is “one of the most vulnerable parts of the face.” She recommends SunBum Lip Balm SPF 30, Aquaphor Lip Protectant + Sunscreen SPF 30, and, for those who like gloss, Keiskin Eye Lip Balm SPF 30.
Sunscreen should be reapplied every two hours and whenever your body comes into contact with water, “even if it's only been 15 minutes since you last applied it,” Love says. Sunscreen clothing and swimwear are also helpful for extended outdoor activities, Love says. “They should be valued more because they fill in the gaps when reapplication of sunscreen is not practical.” Apply enough and there's no guesswork involved. “Wear sunscreen.” Look for one with a UPF (ultraviolet protection factor) of at least 30. This rating will likely be found on the label of the clothing that has been tested.
“Hair is a natural sunscreen for your scalp,” Love says, but hair itself can also suffer sun damage, which usually shows up as graying or other changes in color. She recommends wearing a hat to protect your hair, ears, and scalp, and parting your hair differently, especially on days when UV levels are high (most mobile weather apps include this indicator, called the UV index) or you expect a lot of sun exposure. You can also apply a lightweight sunscreen directly to your scalp; both Love and Njoroge recommend the easy-to-apply Sunbum Scalp & Hair Mist SPF 30 and Coolua Scalp & Hair Sunscreen Mist.
Help, I have a sunburn. What should I do?
Burns often aren't immediately noticeable, so it's important to look out for more subtle signs of damage when you're outside in the sun: If your skin turns pink or red, or feels warm to the touch, it's a good idea to seek out shade, advises Love.
Once you know you have a burn, it's crucial to soothe and treat the inflammation, says Njoroge. Severe burns may require medical attention, but for milder burns, “anything that can reduce the temperature of the skin may help reduce discomfort and reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” he says. Here's what your post-burn cooling routine might look like:
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Place Farmacy's Honey Potion Plus, a hydrating mask packed with skin-soothing antioxidants, in the fridge for an hour, then apply to your face for 10 to 15 minutes. (Aloe gel is a cost-effective alternative.)
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Showering with cool water and gently patting the skin dry without scrubbing can help prevent the condition from getting worse.
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Apply a cold compress to the inflamed area for about 10 minutes.
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Wear loose clothing until your skin heals.
“During sunburn healing, your skin is more sensitive,” Love says. “So products that you were able to use without issue before may cause a reaction or slow healing.” Avoid active ingredients like vitamin C, retinol, and exfoliating acids. Prefer hydrating, gentle products like La Roche-Posay Toleriane Hydrating Gentle Facial Cleanser and Avene Cicalfate+ Restorative Protective Cream until your burn heals. Love also recommends finishing your routine with a thin layer of petroleum jelly on the affected area for extra hydration. In short, your post-sun skincare routine should be about “treating your skin well,” says Love. But of course, prevention is always the best cure.